Algae bloom is a result of excess nutrients in the aquarium water; it is also a result of too much light. This is not necessarily attributed to aquarium lighting but can also include intense room light and direct sunlight.
It is the free floating planktonic single cell algae growing at a phenomenal rate that turns the water green, often referred to as "green water". The cause is always the same, excess light and nutrients (nitrates), often resulting from over feeding and uneaten food. Obtain a nitrate reading to confirm this.
Whenever a new aquarium is set up a number of cycles occur, some you probably know of, such as the nitrogen cycle. However, a phosphorous cycle also occurs, which may be stimulated if phosphate buffers are overused when excess nitrates are present, so by adding a phosphate remover to the aquarium filter the situation is compounded.
Performing water changes can alleviate the situation to some degree, however, if steps aren't taken to remove the nutrients and /or the excess light that are causing problem, the water changes are providing little help in the long term. Algae spores will thrive in nutrient rich water, an algae bloom can become so severe that the content of an aquarium can vanish in the green water.
Algae are a form of plant life and will consume oxygen at night. If algae bloom is severe, adequate oxygenation should be provided during the lights off period at night-time, it is possible for a severe algae bloom to deplete the tank of oxygen.
So if algae are a form of plant life you will be right to think that it requires exactly the same conditions as plants to survive, i.e. light and nutrients. Therefore to rid yourself of the algae you need to remove the things that it needs to survive.
Dying organic matter will create just the right nutrients that algae need for survival, so the filter should be rinsed more frequently during an algae bloom, eliminating some of the decaying matter. Installing a larger internal filter in the aquarium will go one step further to fixing the problem.
Other possibilities that can help to rid the problem include vacuuming the gravel of all debris, reducing the light in the aquarium and reducing the length of time it is on. Be sure not to over feed the aquarium, the fishes will only eat the amount of food that fills them.
Live Daphnia are minute crustaceans that are actually a favorite food of fishes. If you can find a supplier of live daphnia get some and introduce them into the aquarium, they will eat off your green water in no time; that is if the fishes don't eat the daphnia first. Live plants are always a good option because they absorb the nutrients that the green algae will otherwise thrive on.
In summary, the only way to prevent or solve an algae bloom is by controlling excess nutrients.
For more information about freshwater tropical fishkeeping please visit my site at http://www.freshwatertropicalfishkeeping.com for 30 years or more of fishkeeping experience. Or watch out for more fishkeeping articles from me, Kevin M. Yates at FWTFK
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kevin_M_Yates
Saturday, March 22, 2008
Friday, March 21, 2008
The Nitrogen Cycle and Your Aquarium
When fishes, plants, and food are introduced into the aquarium a process known as nitrification occurs, this is referred to as the nitrogen cycle. This is not unique to aquaria; nitrification will occur in any body of water, or soil, where bacterial action breaks down decaying organic matter and converts it into ammonia. Ammonia compounds are then oxidized into nitrite and nitrates.
These nitrifying bacteria can be termed as beneficial or friendly bacteria, without them aquarium inhabitants could not survive. The process begins with Heterotrophic bacteria consuming fish waste, decaying vegetation, and uneaten food, and converting them into ammonia.
Ammonia (NH3) is a colourless, pungent, suffocating gas, a compound of nitrogen and hydrogen, and is very soluble in water. The majority of waste produced by fishes is in the form of ammonia, most of which is secreted through the gills. The remainder excreted as faecal matter, is converted to ammonia by Heterotrophic bacteria.
Ammonia is extremely toxic to fishes and must be removed or broken down. Visual signs of fishes succumbing to this toxicity include:
Gasping at the surface Cloudy eyes Frayed fins Listless behaviour Increased mucous production Possible internal and external bleeding (if extreme toxicity exists)
Because of the toxic effects of high levels of ammonia there maybe fatalities, even after ammonia levels are brought under control. Smaller fishes have a higher gill surface area relative to larger fishes; and are therefore more susceptible to ammonia toxicity.
Water changes are the best way to solve ammonia problems. You should do partial water changes over a few days, to bring levels down. Resin-based media or zeolites are available at aquatic shops and are very useful at removing various substances from freshwater aquariums, including ammonia.
Moving fishes to a safe tank will stop the absorption of ammonia immediately, and they can be returned to the main tank when ammonia levels return to zero. If you have a high pH level, you could try reducing it to nearer 7.0, as this will also reduce the ammonia toxicity.
pH is an important factor in controlling many chemical balances, of which ammonia and ammonium are included. pH is logarithmic, and this is the controlling factor over the presence of ammonia or ammonium.
Ammonium (NH4) is less toxic than ammonia, and is formed when ammonia reacts with acids, therefore, if ammonia is present in the aquarium, and the pH of the water is acidic, then ammonia will become ammonium.
As pH rises, so does the toxicity of ammonia, i.e. a pH increase from 7.0 to 8.0 would be a ten-fold increase in the hydroxyl ion, (and decrease in hydrogen concentration) and ultimately a ten-fold increase in ammonia toxicity.
It is therefore necessary to test for ammonia before significantly increasing pH. Ammonia testing will show a zero reading when the nitrogen cycle is working well, and the Nitrosomonas bacteria are consuming the ammonia and converting it into nitrite.
Nitrite (NO2) is also toxic to fishes if it is not removed or converted into nitrates during the nitrogen cycle. Levels above 1ppm need to be removed by carrying out substantial water changes. This should be done on a daily basis for a number of days, testing regularly, until the nitrite level has reduced to zero.
Moving fishes to a safe tank will stop the absorption of nitrites immediately. They can then be returned to your main tank when nitrite readings show zero. Symptoms of nitrite toxicity include:
Listlessness Gasping at the surface Blood and gills turning brown
Nitrite is also dependent on pH, and if pH drops below 6.5, when nitrite is present in the water, the nitrite will convert to nitrous acid. This too, is very toxic to fishes.
Nitrate (NO3) is the end product of the nitrogen cycle, and is relatively non-toxic; although in high concentrations can still be a problem. Nitrite is converted into nitrate by the bacteria Nitrobacter, and the presence of nitrates in a freshwater aquarium indicates that the nitrification process is working.
Some species are more tolerant than others to nitrate, but a sensible approach would be to keep levels below 50ppm (mg/l). Some of the symptoms of nitrate toxicity would be:
General poor health Poor growth Poor colouring Less tolerance to disease
Nitrates are an essential food source for plants and algae, so if you encourage healthy plant growth in your aquarium, levels will be reduced. Otherwise, if tests show high levels, it would indicate a partial water change is necessary.
Regular partial water changes when carried out during maintenance will usually keep it under control anyway. Ammonia and Nitrite levels will tend to be at their highest in the first 4 to 6 weeks of establishing a new aquarium. This is usually known as new tank syndrome.
Hydrogen Sulphide (H2S) is an extremely poisonous gas that smells like rotten eggs, even in small concentrations it can cause a quick death. It is produced during the decay of organic matter that contains sulphur, and by the action of dilute acid on the sulphides (acid aquariums being at risk).
The usual cause in the aquarium is probably one of neglect, by not keeping the substrate clean of dirt and debris, thereby allowing the decay to build up. An early indication of this problem can be a sudden bloom of algae.
The poisonous gas affects fishes by binding the iron of the bloods haemoglobin, which blocks the absorption of oxygen; this causes symptoms, which include:
Respiratory problems Gasping at surface Unusual colouration of the gills
Regular aquarium maintenance, being sure to clean all debris from the substrate, will prevent the problem arising.
For more information about freshwater tropical fishkeeping please visit my site at http://www.freshwatertropicalfishkeeping.com for 30 years or more of fishkeeping experience. Or watch out for more fishkeeping articles from me, Kevin M. Yates at FWTFK
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kevin_M_Yates
These nitrifying bacteria can be termed as beneficial or friendly bacteria, without them aquarium inhabitants could not survive. The process begins with Heterotrophic bacteria consuming fish waste, decaying vegetation, and uneaten food, and converting them into ammonia.
Ammonia (NH3) is a colourless, pungent, suffocating gas, a compound of nitrogen and hydrogen, and is very soluble in water. The majority of waste produced by fishes is in the form of ammonia, most of which is secreted through the gills. The remainder excreted as faecal matter, is converted to ammonia by Heterotrophic bacteria.
Ammonia is extremely toxic to fishes and must be removed or broken down. Visual signs of fishes succumbing to this toxicity include:
Gasping at the surface Cloudy eyes Frayed fins Listless behaviour Increased mucous production Possible internal and external bleeding (if extreme toxicity exists)
Because of the toxic effects of high levels of ammonia there maybe fatalities, even after ammonia levels are brought under control. Smaller fishes have a higher gill surface area relative to larger fishes; and are therefore more susceptible to ammonia toxicity.
Water changes are the best way to solve ammonia problems. You should do partial water changes over a few days, to bring levels down. Resin-based media or zeolites are available at aquatic shops and are very useful at removing various substances from freshwater aquariums, including ammonia.
Moving fishes to a safe tank will stop the absorption of ammonia immediately, and they can be returned to the main tank when ammonia levels return to zero. If you have a high pH level, you could try reducing it to nearer 7.0, as this will also reduce the ammonia toxicity.
pH is an important factor in controlling many chemical balances, of which ammonia and ammonium are included. pH is logarithmic, and this is the controlling factor over the presence of ammonia or ammonium.
Ammonium (NH4) is less toxic than ammonia, and is formed when ammonia reacts with acids, therefore, if ammonia is present in the aquarium, and the pH of the water is acidic, then ammonia will become ammonium.
As pH rises, so does the toxicity of ammonia, i.e. a pH increase from 7.0 to 8.0 would be a ten-fold increase in the hydroxyl ion, (and decrease in hydrogen concentration) and ultimately a ten-fold increase in ammonia toxicity.
It is therefore necessary to test for ammonia before significantly increasing pH. Ammonia testing will show a zero reading when the nitrogen cycle is working well, and the Nitrosomonas bacteria are consuming the ammonia and converting it into nitrite.
Nitrite (NO2) is also toxic to fishes if it is not removed or converted into nitrates during the nitrogen cycle. Levels above 1ppm need to be removed by carrying out substantial water changes. This should be done on a daily basis for a number of days, testing regularly, until the nitrite level has reduced to zero.
Moving fishes to a safe tank will stop the absorption of nitrites immediately. They can then be returned to your main tank when nitrite readings show zero. Symptoms of nitrite toxicity include:
Listlessness Gasping at the surface Blood and gills turning brown
Nitrite is also dependent on pH, and if pH drops below 6.5, when nitrite is present in the water, the nitrite will convert to nitrous acid. This too, is very toxic to fishes.
Nitrate (NO3) is the end product of the nitrogen cycle, and is relatively non-toxic; although in high concentrations can still be a problem. Nitrite is converted into nitrate by the bacteria Nitrobacter, and the presence of nitrates in a freshwater aquarium indicates that the nitrification process is working.
Some species are more tolerant than others to nitrate, but a sensible approach would be to keep levels below 50ppm (mg/l). Some of the symptoms of nitrate toxicity would be:
General poor health Poor growth Poor colouring Less tolerance to disease
Nitrates are an essential food source for plants and algae, so if you encourage healthy plant growth in your aquarium, levels will be reduced. Otherwise, if tests show high levels, it would indicate a partial water change is necessary.
Regular partial water changes when carried out during maintenance will usually keep it under control anyway. Ammonia and Nitrite levels will tend to be at their highest in the first 4 to 6 weeks of establishing a new aquarium. This is usually known as new tank syndrome.
Hydrogen Sulphide (H2S) is an extremely poisonous gas that smells like rotten eggs, even in small concentrations it can cause a quick death. It is produced during the decay of organic matter that contains sulphur, and by the action of dilute acid on the sulphides (acid aquariums being at risk).
The usual cause in the aquarium is probably one of neglect, by not keeping the substrate clean of dirt and debris, thereby allowing the decay to build up. An early indication of this problem can be a sudden bloom of algae.
The poisonous gas affects fishes by binding the iron of the bloods haemoglobin, which blocks the absorption of oxygen; this causes symptoms, which include:
Respiratory problems Gasping at surface Unusual colouration of the gills
Regular aquarium maintenance, being sure to clean all debris from the substrate, will prevent the problem arising.
For more information about freshwater tropical fishkeeping please visit my site at http://www.freshwatertropicalfishkeeping.com for 30 years or more of fishkeeping experience. Or watch out for more fishkeeping articles from me, Kevin M. Yates at FWTFK
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kevin_M_Yates
The Essential Elements of Water and the Aquarium
Water is an essential part of fishkeeping equipment, and it is probably the most misunderstood, many of the problems that occur in the freshwater aquarium are usually associated with water quality.
The fish that we keep in our aquariums originate from all over the world. It is therefore necessary for the aspiring fishkeeper to have an understanding of how the chemistry and quality of the water varies from region to region.
You will need to understand and be able to alter your own local water to suit the needs of your fishes. You MUST regularly monitor your water to guard against any build up of harmful pollutants, as well as its general condition.
Natural bodies of water, such as lakes and rivers, are by nature very stable environments, their large volumes of water counteract any changes in water quality, and it is this dilution effect that makes such changes hardly noticeable.
Tropical freshwater fish have evolved to live in these stable conditions, and are therefore very susceptible to any change they may encounter in water chemistry. Although we like to regard our aquariums as a small-scale reproduction of life in a lake or river, we must consider the much smaller volume of water our fishes have to live in.
Any changes in water chemistry will have a greater impact in the aquarium than in nature, due to a much lower dilution effect. Fish will detect even the smallest decline in water quality, and will often show signs of irritation and stress.
As you probably know water is a compound of hydrogen and oxygen, at the ratio of 2:1, hence H2O, and although life is dependant on water, pure water will not support life. Water must contain certain salts if it is to support life at all.
Fortunately, water is highly adept at dissolving gases and solids, and it is this ability to readily dissolve other substances that makes it able to support life (water will also readily dissolve pollutants, which must be controlled).
It is because of this capacity to dissolve numerous substances in large amounts that pure water rarely occurs in nature. As water falls to earth as rain or snow it will absorb from the atmosphere varying amounts of carbon dioxide and other gases, as well as traces of organic and inorganic matter, upon reaching the earth's surface, the water will follow two paths.
Some of the water will infiltrate the soil, a part of which becomes soil moisture, which will evaporate directly, or be used by the roots of vegetation. Water that overcomes these forces in the soil profile will percolate deeper and become a part of the groundwater reservoir, the surface of which is known as the water table.
The other path that rainwater will take is over the surface, which is termed as surface run off, and will run directly into streams, rivers, and landlocked bodies of water, such as lakes. Most natural waters contain dissolved salts, which are consequently found in tap water.
Natural water will also contain suspended and dissolved impurities, which is why it must be treated before it is fit for us to drink. The amounts of salts dissolved in the water determine whether it is hard or soft.
Water that is in constant contact with substances such as limestone or chalk tends to be hard, whereas water running over sandstone or granite for instance, is likely to be soft. Hardness of natural water is caused largely by calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg) salts and to a small extent by iron, aluminium, and other metals.
This is referred to as General Hardness (GH), or Total Hardness, and is a measure of all the dissolved salts in the water. General Hardness influences Calcium levels in the blood, and the osmotic regulatory systems of fishes are affected by concentrations of dissolved salts.
High levels could irritate gill membranes, they may look slightly swollen, and the fishes may be seen flicking or rubbing in the water. It is necessary to test for General Hardness so that it matches the original habitat of the species being kept.
Hardness is usually expressed in terms of the amount of calcium carbonate (CaCO3) present in solution, and is normally measured as parts per million (ppm). If General Hardness is too high make sure there are no calciferous materials in your water, such as coral, lime, or chalk. Alternatively water-softening products are commercially available.
If GH is too low add calciferous materials such as pieces of limestone, into your aquarium; or a little coral gravel into your filter; don't add too much at one time, and monitor until desired value is reached.
Carbonate Hardness (KH), or Temporary Hardness is principally composed of bicarbonate ions (HCO3) and carbonate ions (CO3), and has the capacity to neutralize an acid, this is known as the buffering capacity. Carbonate Hardness stabilizes water pH.
The immediate aspect of this is that aquariums with soft water are more likely to suffer from the phenomenon known as pH crash. This is when the pH abruptly drops, and for the newcomer to the hobby, it would seem like there was no apparent reason.
Carbonate Hardness (KH) is expressed in terms of the amount of calcium carbonate (CaCO3) present in solution. The test is similar to the GH test, but with a different reagent (the substance used to react with your water in the test tube to obtain a result).
The hardness and pH of your tap water supply is the first thing you should evaluate, knowing this will enable you to choose fishes that would be suited to your water conditions. Alternatively you will have to adjust the chemistry of your tap water to suit the requirements of the fishes that you choose.
For more information about freshwater tropical fishkeeping please visit my site at http://www.freshwatertropicalfishkeeping.com for 30 years or more of fishkeeping experience. Or watch out for more fishkeeping articles from me, Kevin M. Yates at FWTFK
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kevin_M_Yates
The fish that we keep in our aquariums originate from all over the world. It is therefore necessary for the aspiring fishkeeper to have an understanding of how the chemistry and quality of the water varies from region to region.
You will need to understand and be able to alter your own local water to suit the needs of your fishes. You MUST regularly monitor your water to guard against any build up of harmful pollutants, as well as its general condition.
Natural bodies of water, such as lakes and rivers, are by nature very stable environments, their large volumes of water counteract any changes in water quality, and it is this dilution effect that makes such changes hardly noticeable.
Tropical freshwater fish have evolved to live in these stable conditions, and are therefore very susceptible to any change they may encounter in water chemistry. Although we like to regard our aquariums as a small-scale reproduction of life in a lake or river, we must consider the much smaller volume of water our fishes have to live in.
Any changes in water chemistry will have a greater impact in the aquarium than in nature, due to a much lower dilution effect. Fish will detect even the smallest decline in water quality, and will often show signs of irritation and stress.
As you probably know water is a compound of hydrogen and oxygen, at the ratio of 2:1, hence H2O, and although life is dependant on water, pure water will not support life. Water must contain certain salts if it is to support life at all.
Fortunately, water is highly adept at dissolving gases and solids, and it is this ability to readily dissolve other substances that makes it able to support life (water will also readily dissolve pollutants, which must be controlled).
It is because of this capacity to dissolve numerous substances in large amounts that pure water rarely occurs in nature. As water falls to earth as rain or snow it will absorb from the atmosphere varying amounts of carbon dioxide and other gases, as well as traces of organic and inorganic matter, upon reaching the earth's surface, the water will follow two paths.
Some of the water will infiltrate the soil, a part of which becomes soil moisture, which will evaporate directly, or be used by the roots of vegetation. Water that overcomes these forces in the soil profile will percolate deeper and become a part of the groundwater reservoir, the surface of which is known as the water table.
The other path that rainwater will take is over the surface, which is termed as surface run off, and will run directly into streams, rivers, and landlocked bodies of water, such as lakes. Most natural waters contain dissolved salts, which are consequently found in tap water.
Natural water will also contain suspended and dissolved impurities, which is why it must be treated before it is fit for us to drink. The amounts of salts dissolved in the water determine whether it is hard or soft.
Water that is in constant contact with substances such as limestone or chalk tends to be hard, whereas water running over sandstone or granite for instance, is likely to be soft. Hardness of natural water is caused largely by calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg) salts and to a small extent by iron, aluminium, and other metals.
This is referred to as General Hardness (GH), or Total Hardness, and is a measure of all the dissolved salts in the water. General Hardness influences Calcium levels in the blood, and the osmotic regulatory systems of fishes are affected by concentrations of dissolved salts.
High levels could irritate gill membranes, they may look slightly swollen, and the fishes may be seen flicking or rubbing in the water. It is necessary to test for General Hardness so that it matches the original habitat of the species being kept.
Hardness is usually expressed in terms of the amount of calcium carbonate (CaCO3) present in solution, and is normally measured as parts per million (ppm). If General Hardness is too high make sure there are no calciferous materials in your water, such as coral, lime, or chalk. Alternatively water-softening products are commercially available.
If GH is too low add calciferous materials such as pieces of limestone, into your aquarium; or a little coral gravel into your filter; don't add too much at one time, and monitor until desired value is reached.
Carbonate Hardness (KH), or Temporary Hardness is principally composed of bicarbonate ions (HCO3) and carbonate ions (CO3), and has the capacity to neutralize an acid, this is known as the buffering capacity. Carbonate Hardness stabilizes water pH.
The immediate aspect of this is that aquariums with soft water are more likely to suffer from the phenomenon known as pH crash. This is when the pH abruptly drops, and for the newcomer to the hobby, it would seem like there was no apparent reason.
Carbonate Hardness (KH) is expressed in terms of the amount of calcium carbonate (CaCO3) present in solution. The test is similar to the GH test, but with a different reagent (the substance used to react with your water in the test tube to obtain a result).
The hardness and pH of your tap water supply is the first thing you should evaluate, knowing this will enable you to choose fishes that would be suited to your water conditions. Alternatively you will have to adjust the chemistry of your tap water to suit the requirements of the fishes that you choose.
For more information about freshwater tropical fishkeeping please visit my site at http://www.freshwatertropicalfishkeeping.com for 30 years or more of fishkeeping experience. Or watch out for more fishkeeping articles from me, Kevin M. Yates at FWTFK
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kevin_M_Yates
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